Patchouli Light (EO)
Botanical name Pogostemon cablin
Origin Indonesia
CASnr: 8014-86-0
Scent: Earthy-mossy with fresh, bright top-middle accents; less sultry than dark variants, faster opening and accessible
Fragrance type: natural, warm-earthy, slightly spicy
Fragrance Group: Woody
Use Base anchor and wood accent in perfumes; suitable for modern woody, fougère and eau de parfum compositions; can also be used in aromatherapy and cosmetic formulations.
Recommended dosage (parfmerie): Eau de Cologne / Eau de Toilette: 0.5-3% of total formula, Parfum Extrait: 5-10% depending on desired patchouli dominance Start with low percentages and adjust after aging; increase fixatives (sandalwood, ambroxan) by 1-3% if additional durability is needed.
A fresh, bright Indonesian patchouli that delivers the deep earthy warmth of patchouli without the heavy, dark character – perfect as a modern wood anchor in perfumes.
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Fragrance Profile Patchouli Light
Patchouli Light opens relatively fresh and immediate: light, spicy top notes with a subtle citrusy elevator and green accents.
In the heart, it develops into warm, earthy and woody midtones with a pleasant mossy undertone.
The dry-down is cleaner and less heavy than dark varieties, with a lingering but elegant base of soft earth, light tobacco-like nuances and a warm, slightly sweet woodiness.
Use in perfumery
- Role in compositions: works as a mid-to-basic anchor that adds texture and depth without weighing down a fragrance.
- Combinations: pairs excellently with citrus (bergamot, grapefruit) for brightness; with lavender or geranium for aromatic sophistication; with cedar, vetiver or sandalwood for a modern woody profile.
- Formula positions: ideal in modern Eau de Parfum and eau-de-toilette where portability and a fresh woody signature are desired.
- Dosage: usual between 0.5-8% depending on product type and desired presence; start low and increase after maturation.
- Technical use: can be part of both top/mid accords (for elevator) and base layers (for continuity), and helps synthetic wood tones appear more natural.
Difference in practical use between Patchouli Dark and Patchouli Light
- Character: Dark is heavier, richer and more sultry; Light is fresher, brighter and quicker to access.
- Function in a composition: Dark functions primarily as a deep base fixative (orientals, leathers, classic chypres); Light acts as a mid-anchor that provides structure without weighing down the composition (modern woody, fougère, daytime EDP).
- Dosage recommendation: use Dark lower in percentage when you want to strengthen the base (e.g., 4-10% in EDP concentrate), Light you can use slightly higher for a noticeable but airy presence (e.g., 6-12% in fragrance concentrate of the same strength).
- Blending approach: Dark often calls for softening with vanilla/benzoin or additional citrus elevator to balance hard floral notes; Light often calls for additional fixatives (sandalwood, ambroxan) to achieve the same level of permanence.
- Audience Profile: Dark suits niche/evening perfumes and classic lovers well; Light appeals to consumers who want patchouli without a heavy “old-fashioned” image.
Some facts and practical tips
Maturation and color: patchouli changes with aging; darker oil may indicate longer storage or other distillation/aging conditions and often has a rounder scent.
Synergy with synthetic fixatives: Light can benefit from 1-3% ambroxan, cashmeran or musks for extra sillage and durability without weight gain.
Use in gourmand/oriental blends: a small amount of patchouli (light or dark) deepens gourmand accords – dark gives richness, light adds modern balance.
Technical analysis Patchouli Light
| Component | Percentage range (%) | Function / Odor Impact |
|---|---|---|
| Patchouli alcohol | 29.2 - 29.8 | Main component; earthy, woody fragrance, fixative |
| α-Bulnesene (δ-guaine) | 16.4 - 17.4 | Dark, woody, smoky character |
| α-Guaine | 12.5 - 15.8 | Smoky, woody, enhanced depth |
| Seychelles | 0 - 10.0 | Balsamic, hot, variable by batch |
| γ-Patchoulene | 0 - 8.6 | Resinous, earthy nuance |
| α-Patchoulene | 3.7 - 5.4 | Earthy, slightly camphorous accent |
| β-Caryophyllene | 2.1 - 8.4 | Spicy-balsamic, heat and fixation |
| 1(10)-Aromadendrene | 0 - 8.7 | Dry-woody, sharpens the profile |
| β-Patchoulene | 2.4 - 3.0 | Resinous, earthy support |
| Pogostol | tr - 1.5 | Sweet-amberish, marker for ripening/oxidation |
| (±)-allo-Aromadendrene | 0 - 1.6 | Dry woody accent |
| δ-Cadinene | 0 - 1.7 | Warm-spicy, enhanced balsamic notes |
Core difference from Patchouli Dark: Patchouli Light has a slightly fresher and brighter scent due to higher variation in aromadendrenes and caryophyllene, while Patchouli Dark is heavier and smokier due to higher bulnesene/guaine concentrations.
