Acetyl Isoeugenol / Isoeugenyl Acetate (AC)
CAS number: 93-29-8
Synonyms: Aceto-iso-eugenol, Isoeugenyl acetate
Scent: a warm, spicy floral fragrance that mainly enhances rose and carnation accords.
Appearance: solid (crystals/powdery) melting point around 79-81 °C
Recommended dosage: typically <1% in total formula, in accordance with IFRA restrictions
⚠️ Acetyl Isoeugenol has very strict IFRA restrictions and is practically not allowed in many cosmetic applications.
“Acetyl Isoeugenol is used by hobby perfumers to study the warm, spicy-floral depth of vintage perfumes and reconstruct historical formulas (strict IFRA restrictions).”
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Fragrance Description
- Character: Warm, spicy and floral
- Associations: Clove, carnation, rose
- Role in perfumery: Enhances floral accords (especially rose and carnation), adds warmth and depth to oriental and spicy compositions. Connects spicy and floral notes, creates an elegant vintage-like atmosphere
Application
- Floral accords: Amplifies rose and carnation, making them fuller and richer.
- Oriental perfumes: Adds warmth and depth to spicy and balsamic compositions.
- Woody perfumes: Acts as a bridge between spicy top notes and deep woody bases.
- Base note: Remains present for a long time and extends the life of the perfume.
🌫️ The value of Acetyl Isoeugenol for vintage perfume reconstructions
Acetyl Isoeugenol is one of those fragrances that immediately takes you back to the classic perfumery of the 1920s to 1960s. It is softer and rounder than Isoeugenol itself, with a warm, spicy-floral character that gives rose and carnation accords, in particular, wonderful depth.
In vintage perfumes, Acetyl Isoeugenol was used to:
- make rose accords fuller and creamier
- give carnation and spicy florals more warmth and elegance
- give aldehydic florals a soft, classic rounding
- give oriental perfumes a warm, balsamic undertone
- make the transition between heart and base smoother
It is an ingredient that gives a perfume a vintage signature: warm, floral, slightly spicy and elegantly rounded.
🧪 Why hobby perfumers still use it today
Although Acetyl Isoeugenol is almost impossible to use in modern cosmetics due to IFRA, it remains an indispensable reference material for hobby perfumers and perfume historians. It helps to:
- authentically reconstruct historical perfumes
- understand classic rose and carnation accords
- study the evolution of floral perfumery
- modern alternatives compare with vintage materials
- Gain insight into how perfumes used to be constructed
Without Acetyl Isoeugenol, reconstructions often miss:
- the warm, spicy finish
- the classic rose depth
- the soft, elegant transition between heart and base
- the typical “vintage floral” atmosphere
With Acetyl Isoeugenol, an old formula suddenly falls into place – like bringing a forgotten flower back to bloom.
🕰️ The value to perfume history
Acetyl Isoeugenol shows how perfumes used to be more rich, warm and floral in structure. It is a key to understanding classic florals, and a valuable ingredient for anyone delving into vintage perfumery.
For hobby perfumers, it is a time capsule of floral-spicy perfumery.
IFRA restrictions for Acetyl Isoeugenol (CAS 93-29-8).
| IFRA category | Examples of products | Max. concentration (%) |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | Lip products (leave-on) | Prohibited (0%) |
| 2 | Deodorant, antiperspirant, eye products (leave-on) | Prohibited (0%) |
| 3 | Face and hand creams, body creams (leave-on) | 0.01% |
| 4 | Hydro-alcoholic fine fragrance (perfume, EdP, EdT) | 0.01% |
| 5A | Shampoo, shower gel, soap (rinse-off) | 0.02% |
| 5B | Conditioner, hair mask (rinse-off) | 0.02% |
| 5C | Toothpaste, mouthwash | Prohibited (0%) |
| 6 | Hair dyeing (oxidative) | Prohibited (0%) |
| 7A | Hand soap (rinse-off) | 0.02% |
| 7B | Household cleaners (rinse-off) | 0.02% |
| 8 | Body sprays, non-fine fragrance leave-on | 0.01% |
| 9 | Scented candles, air fresheners | 0.02% |
| 10A | Detergents (powder, liquid) | 0.02% |
| 10B | Stain removers, textile fresheners | 0.02% |
| 11 | Non-applicable (industrial applications) | No limit |
Summary
- Fine fragrance (category 4): maximum 0.01%.
- Leave-on creams (categories 3 and 8): also allowed very low(0.01%).
- Rinse-off products (categories 5, 7, 10): slightly wider(0.02%).
- Mouth, lip and eye products: completely prohibited.
Comparison of eugenol derivatives and variants
| Dust | CAS number | Chemical family | Appearance | Fragrance profile | Use in perfumery | Particulars / Regulation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Isoeugenol | 97-54-1 | Phenylpropanoid (isomer of eugenol) | Light yellow liquid | Spicy, floral, woody, carnation-like | Amplifies rose and carnation accords | IFRA severely limited (<1% in perfumes) | |
| Methyl Isoeugenol | 93-15-2 | Methoxy derivative of isoeugenol | Colorless to light yellow liquid | Sweet, spicy, slightly floral | Fixative and modifier in floral chords | IFRA restrictions, possibly carcinogenic at high doses | |
| Acetyl Isoeugenol | 93-29-8 | Ester of isoeugenol | Light yellow liquid | Warm, spicy, floral (rose, carnation) | Gives depth and warmth to floral and oriental perfumes | IFRA restrictions, max. ~0.01% in fine fragrance | |
| Eugenol natural | 97-53-0 | Phenylpropanoid (main ingredient clove oil) | Pale yellow viscous liquid | Strongly clove-like, warm, balsamic | Base for spicy perfumes, used in dentistry | Natural, but allergenic substance; IFRA limited | |
| Eugenol natural 100% FG (Robertet) | 97-53-0 | Phenylpropanoid | High natural quality | Pale yellow, viscous | Intense clove, pure and powerful | Premium quality for fine fragrance | Robertet guarantees 100% Food Grade & traceable origin |
🔑 Main differences
- Isoeugenol vs. Eugenol: Isoeugenol is an isomer of eugenol, with a more floral and softer character; eugenol itself is sharper and more clove-like.
- Methyl Isoeugenol: Has a sweeter nuance, but is under strict scrutiny due to toxicological concerns.
- Acetyl Isoeugenol: Used primarily to deepen rose and carnation accords, but should only be used in very low doses.
- Eugenol natural 100% FG by Robertet: Premium quality, all-natural and food grade, specially developed for perfumery and aromatic applications.
