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Acetyl Isoeugenol / Isoeugenyl Acetate (AC)
CAS number: 93-29-8
Synonyms: Aceto-iso-eugenol, Isoeugenyl acetate
Scent: a warm, spicy floral fragrance that mainly enhances rose and carnation accords.
Appearance: a pale yellow liquid
Recommended dosage: typically <1% in total formula, in accordance with IFRA restrictions
Acetyl Isoeugenol: The spicy floral note that gives perfume a warm twist.
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Fragrance Description
- Character: Warm, spicy and floral
- Associations: Clove, carnation, rose
- Role in perfumery: Enhances floral accords (especially rose and carnation), adds warmth and depth to oriental and spicy compositions. Connects spicy and floral notes, creates an elegant vintage-like atmosphere
Application
- Floral accords: Amplifies rose and carnation, making them fuller and richer.
- Oriental perfumes: Adds warmth and depth to spicy and balsamic compositions.
- Woody perfumes: Acts as a bridge between spicy top notes and deep woody bases.
- Base note: Remains present for a long time and extends the life of the perfume.
IFRA restrictions for Acetyl Isoeugenol (CAS 93-29-8).
| IFRA category | Examples of products | Max. concentration (%) |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | Lip products, oral care | Prohibited (0%) |
| 2 | Deodorant, antiperspirant, eye products | Prohibited (0%) |
| 3 | Facial creams, hand creams, leave-on | 0.01% |
| 4 | Bodylotion, baby products (leave-on) | 0.01% |
| 5A | Shampoo, shower gel, soap (rinse-off) | 0.02% |
| 5B | Conditioner, hair mask (rinse-off) | 0.02% |
| 5C | Toothpaste, mouthwash | Prohibited (0%) |
| 6 | Hair dyes, oxidative products | Prohibited (0%) |
| 7A | Hand soap (rinse-off) | 0.02% |
| 7B | Detergent, household cleaners | 0.02% |
| 8 | Fine fragrance, eau de parfum, eau de toilette | 0.01% |
| 9 | Scented candles, air fresheners | 0.02% |
| 10A | Detergents (powder, liquid) | 0.02% |
| 10B | Stain removers, textile fresheners | 0.02% |
| 11 | Non-applicable (e.g., industrial) | No limit |
🔑 Important
- Acetyl isoeugenol is highly regulated: in many leave-on products its use is virtually banned or extremely low.
- Fine fragrance (perfume) may contain it, but only up to 0.01% of the total formula.
- Rinse-off products such as shampoo and soap have slightly higher limits (0.02%).
- Oral and lip products are completely banned.
👉 Summary: Acetyl isoeugenol may only be used in very low doses in perfumes and cosmetics, and is prohibited in lip, oral and eye products.
Comparison of eugenol derivatives and variants
| Dust | CAS number | Chemical family | Appearance | Fragrance profile | Use in perfumery | Particulars / Regulation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Isoeugenol | 97-54-1 | Phenylpropanoid (isomer of eugenol) | Light yellow liquid | Spicy, floral, woody, carnation-like | Amplifies rose and carnation accords | IFRA severely limited (<1% in perfumes) | |
| Methyl Isoeugenol | 93-15-2 | Methoxy derivative of isoeugenol | Colorless to light yellow liquid | Sweet, spicy, slightly floral | Fixative and modifier in floral chords | IFRA restrictions, possibly carcinogenic at high doses | |
| Acetyl Isoeugenol | 93-29-8 | Ester of isoeugenol | Light yellow liquid | Warm, spicy, floral (rose, carnation) | Gives depth and warmth to floral and oriental perfumes | IFRA restrictions, max. ~0.01% in fine fragrance | |
| Eugenol natural | 97-53-0 | Phenylpropanoid (main ingredient clove oil) | Pale yellow viscous liquid | Strongly clove-like, warm, balsamic | Base for spicy perfumes, used in dentistry | Natural, but allergenic substance; IFRA limited | |
| Eugenol natural 100% FG (Robertet) | 97-53-0 | Phenylpropanoid | High natural quality | Pale yellow, viscous | Intense clove, pure and powerful | Premium quality for fine fragrance | Robertet guarantees 100% Food Grade & traceable origin |
🔑 Main differences
- Isoeugenol vs. Eugenol: Isoeugenol is an isomer of eugenol, with a more floral and softer character; eugenol itself is sharper and more clove-like.
- Methyl Isoeugenol: Has a sweeter nuance, but is under strict scrutiny due to toxicological concerns.
- Acetyl Isoeugenol: Used primarily to deepen rose and carnation accords, but should only be used in very low doses.
- Eugenol natural 100% FG by Robertet: Premium quality, all-natural and food grade, specially developed for perfumery and aromatic applications.
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