Caryophyllene Acetate (AC)
The ester of β-caryophyllene
Scent: dry woody, soft spicy, warm and slightly fruity with an elegant, rounded woody note
CAS : 32214-91-8
EINECS : 250-960-1
Fragrance strength: medium (72 hours on fragrance strip)
IFRA : no restrictions
Recommended dosage: 0.5-5% in a chord, up to ±10% in woody bases. Works as a “round maker” in compositions and is perfect for softening sharp edges of herbs or citrus. Imparts wood notes and mature, dry elegance.
Warm, earthy and slightly fruity – the gentleman wood of perfumery.
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Caryophyllene Acetate is a warm, dry, elegant wood molecule with gentle spiciness, subtle fruitiness and a rounded, mature warmth that gives compositions depth and balance.
Fragrance profile – Caryophyllene Acetate
First impression (top)
Caryophyllene Acetate opens with a soft, dry wood tone that immediately feels warm and inviting. Unlike the sharper β-caryophyllene, this ester does not have a peppery bite, but a much rounder, mildly spicy opening.
You smell:
- a light, elegant spiciness (think white pepper, but softer)
- a dry, almost dusty wood note
- a very subtle fruity facet, as if a hint of peach or dried apricot floats through it
It is a molecule that immediately gives a comfortable, warm feeling.
Heart (mid-notes)
At the heart, Caryophyllene Acetate develops into a full, warm woody accord with a sophisticated spiciness. The fruity nuance remains present, but becomes more subtle and integrated with the wood.
The heart phase is:
- dry woody, but never sharp
- earthy, with a soft humic warmth
- spicy, but in an elegant, rounded way
- slightly balsamic, as if there were a hint of resin or amber in it
The heart is where Caryophyllene Acetate shows its role as “round maker”: it softens hard edges and gives structure to the whole.
Base (drydown)
At its base, the molecule becomes deeper, warmer and more “grounded.” The spiciness subsides and gives way to a creamy, dry wood warmth.
The drydown is:
- warm wood, almost sandalwood-like but drier
- subtle amber without being sweet
- slightly smoky, but very refined
- stable and soft, with a slight fixing effect
It remains present for a long time, but never dominant. It is a supportive base note that allows other materials to shine.
How it behaves in perfumes
- Soften sharp spices (pepper, cloves, nutmeg)
- Gives body to wood accords (cedar, sandalwood, vetiver)
- Anchors florals (rose, ylang, jasmine)
- Adds warmth to citrus (bergamot, grapefruit)
- Acts as a light fixator
- Fills gaps in wood and amber compositions
- It is friendly: never dominant, never shouty
- It makes perfumes more mature and elegant
- It is a bridge between wood, spices, amber and florals
- It gives a perfume texture and warmth without sweetness
- Ideal in amber, oriental, wood, fougère and unisex perfumes
Funny facts
- It is also found in cloves, basil, cinnamon ánd cannabis, but does not smell like weed at all -.
- Perfumers sometimes call it “the gentleman wood” because it smells so soft and polite.
- Old perfumery books described it as “putty for wood accords” because it subtly fills in gaps in a composition.
