Fragrances under closer scrutiny

Isolates : Pure, natural and surprisingly versatile

Isolaten
Isolaten wat zijn dat

They work behind the scenes, but make a difference.One molecule, a thousand possibilities.

- "An isolate doesn't smell like everything - but it does smell like exactly that one."

An isolate is a natural, pure fragrance extracted from an essential oil. It gives perfumers control, consistency, creativity, nuance, and sometimes.......a good story.

What is an isolate?

If you've ever smelled a perfume and thought, "How do they get that wood so warm, that citrus so sparkling or that flower so precise?" - then you've probably been introduced to an isolate.

But what is that really?

Let's find out, with a few fun stories from the fragrance world.

Isolates: the ninjas of natural perfumery

An isolate is a single, pure molecule extracted from a natural source. Think of an essential oil as a busy marketplace full of scents, colors and chaos.

An isolate is that one stall where everything is neatly arranged and you know exactly what you're getting.

It is thus:

🌱 natural

🌱 pure

🌱consistent

🌱 perfectly dosable

And above all, indispensable in modern perfumery.

How are isolates made?

1. Fractional distillation

In this technique, the essential oil is heated slowly.
The different fragrances each evaporate at their own time - depending on their boiling point - and are thus collected one by one.

It's a bit like emptying a movie theater empty: the fast ones dash out immediately, the chatterboxes linger in the lobby, and the daydreamers wander around by the posters for a while.

Everyone leaves at their own pace - and you catch them neatly, one by one.

2. Molecular distillation

In molecular distillation, the oil is processed at extremely low pressure, allowing the temperature to be lowered and keeping even the most fragile molecules neatly intact.

It is a soft, almost whispered way of parting.

You can think of it as a library on a quiet morning: no one has to rush, everyone moves slowly and carefully, and even the most fragile books remain intact.

Everything happens in silence - just the way this technique works.

3. Chromatography

A kind of olfactory labyrinth where molecules are sorted by size or polarity.
Not often used for perfumery, but very precise.

In chromatography, the different molecules are separated from an oil by each reacting differently on a special column or layer.

Some stick around for a while, others shoot right through - and so you can separate them neatly.

You can compare it to a marathon where everyone runs at their own pace: the sprinters are at the finish line before you can blink, the walkers enjoy the view along the way, and the daydreamers almost forget halfway through that they are participating.

Eventually, everyone will naturally arrive in a different order - just what you need to accommodate them separately.

Why perfumers love isolates

1. Consistency

Lavender oil can smell different every year.
Linalool (an isolate from lavender) always smells the same.
This is as important to perfumers as a chef who wants his salt to always taste salty.

2. Creative freedom

With isolates you can:

  • recreate natural scents

  • "cleaning up" crude oils

  • creating modern, transparent perfumes

  • add subtle nuances

3. Safety & IFRA friendliness.

Sometimes an isolate is less irritating than the crude oil it comes from. This makes it easier and safer to work with.

Creative advantage of isolates:

Build micro-nuances that are impossible with natural oils

Isolates give perfumers a unique superpower: the ability to build extremely precise scent accents that you would never get as pure or subtle with a full essential oil.

Because an isolate is a single molecule, you can use it in microdoses to give a perfume just that one boost - without bringing in other, unwanted notes.

An essential oil is like an entire orchestra playing at once.
An isolate is one perfect violin note that you can deploy at exactly the right time.

What makes isolates truly distinctive:

  • To "lighten up" a fragrance without changing its character For example, a drop of hedione letting a floral accord breathe, without adding extra jasmine.

  • Making a perfume more transparent without making it smell thin Iso E Super, Ambrettolide, Methyl Pamplemousse - they give space, air and modernity.

  • Correcting or refining a natural oil Patchouli too muddy? A little patchoulol or norpatchoulenol makes it cleaner and more elegant.

  • Creating an illusion that does not exist in nature Think "cold flowers," "warm citrus," "wood that shines," "powdery freshness" - effects created only by precisely placing one molecule.

  • Making a perfume float longer without heavy fixatives Some isolates give diffusion and durability at the same time, something natural oils rarely do.

Examples of known isolates

🌿 Linalool (from lavender)

🌿 Citronellol (from rose or citronella)

🌿 Geraniol (from palmarosa)

🌿 β-Gurjunene (from resin-rich oils)

🌿 Eugenol (from cloves)

🌿 Vanillin (from vanilla or lignin)

Is an isolate natural?

Yes - as long as it is taken from a natural source.
Thus, it is not a synthetic fragrance, but a naturally isolated component.

Some certifications (such as Ecocert) have their own rules, but in practice, isolates are often accepted in natural perfumery.

Isolate vs. Essential oil

Essential oilIsolate
CompositionMixture of dozens of moleculesOne molecule
Scent:.Complex, layeredPure, focused
ConsistencyVariableAlways identical
UseAromatherapy, perfumeryPerfumery, aroma chemistry
TargetNatural complexityPrecision & nuance

Isolate vs. Aroma Chemical

What's the difference - and why does it matter in perfumery?

Core difference

  • Isolates are natural fragrances extracted from plants through techniques such as fractional distillation or chromatography.

  • Aroma chemicals are synthetic fragrances, made in a laboratory, often to mimic natural scents or create new ones.
FeatureIsolateAroma Chemical
OriginNatural: isolated from essential oil or plant materialSynthetic: chemically produced
CompositionOne molecule from a natural sourceOne molecule, but not from nature
VariationMay vary slightly by harvest/sourceAlways identical and reproducible
UseNatural perfumery, nuance, refinementModern perfumery, diffusion, strength, new fragrances
ExampleLinalool ex rosewoodIso E Super, Cashmeran, Hedione
AdvantageNatural character, subtle correctionsStrong performance, stability, unique effects
DisadvantageSometimes more expensive, less potentNot allowed in "100% natural" perfumes

How perfumers use them creatively

Isolates

  • refine a natural oil (e.g. patchoulol to make patchouli cleaner)

  • give micro nuances that are impossible with a whole oil

  • Make natural perfumes more modern without becoming synthetic

Aroma chemicals

  • provide diffusion, elevator and modern transparency

  • create scents that do not exist in nature (e.g. Iso E Super effect)

  • strengthen durability without heavy resins

In a nutshell

Isolates are natural single molecules.

Aroma chemicals are synthetic single molecules.

Both are essential - but they play completely different roles in perfumery.

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